Lost on Earth

All of my careful planning came to naught - my visa expired and I had to leave my friend Katie in Bangkok to rush to Aranya Prathet to dash into Cambodia and back into Thailand again. Annoying because Katie is leaving Thailand tomorrow and this took two days out of the time that I could spend with her.

After a five hour bus ride I arrived in Aranya Prathet at 9 p.m. In the dusty orange light from the halogen street lamps I could see...nothing. The place was deserted and creepy. A tuk tuk driver hailed me and offered to take me to a guest house for 60 baht. I had no other options, so I climbed in, his tuk tuk roared, and he drove me a mere 300 meters, across a busy intersection, threw my backpack and I out of the car and demanded his cash. A lot of money for a short distance.

The guest house was locked, but after enough pounding on the door a small twenty-something Thai man materialized and offered me the second worst room I have ever stayed in for 200 baht a night. Immediately next to my room was a raucous karaoke bar where a fight between three women was building up gradually, and would come to a full-blown brawl at about 2 in the morning. I had to give the guest house owner my passport (it's a long story, please don't criticize) with the understanding that I would get it back form him at 8 a.m. the next day so I could leave town. My throat was swollen and sore, and a racking chesty cough rattled my lungs.

The next morning the guest house owner was nowhere to be seen. According to the Cambodian cleaning lady, he was a very bad man, and was sleeping off his hangover in room #10. I waited until 8:30, telling myself that it is not polite to rush the Thai people - they have a different concept of time than Westerners, I am a visitor to their country, I don't want to set a bad example, etc. etc. etc.. I have been very good about being patient with the Thai people, but that morning my stamina failed and I dropped back into a very American attitude. I ran over to room #10, and tapped on the door.

Nothing.

I tapped again. Nothing.

I knocked, loudly. Nothing. The disgruntled Cambodian cleaning lady peeked around the corner, clutching her mop handle with both hands. I pounded my palms against the door. Then I hauled back and started punching it until the the building shook. I also yelled some names at him, but for the sake of my poor Christian mother I won't mention them. I could hear him stirring inside, then he wrenched the door open and blinked at me from crusty, bloodshot eyes.

My passport retrieved, I jumped in a tuk tuk and we puttered towards the border. I meandered through immigration lines, down catwalks and across cesspools in my little blue sun dress, bribes of pink 100 baht notes tucked snugly inside my passport - none of them were refused. After the deed was done I jumped on the first bus back to Bangkok and ate cashew nuts and dried bananas for lunch.

Poipet, the Cambodian compliment to Aranya Prathet, is a sick contrast between arrogant and humble, wealthy and poor. Casinos as big as airplane hangers, white and sparkly in the sun, tower over dirty, sick children begging in the dusty, stinking streets. Rich Asians climb into chauffeured cars and drive past lean, sweaty young Cambodian men and women pulling wooden carts loaded with oranges, pomegranates, and other tradable goods. Just another nasty border town where the absolute best and worst in human nature stands out starkly. This is the last time I'll have to go to one of these towns, and I will not miss it.

When I returned to Bangkok I took a motorbike taxi back to my guest house. While we were tearing down the crowded streets at 80 kilometers an hour, slitting lanes and driving the wrong way down one way streets, a helmet fell from the basket of the motorbike in front of us, directly in our path. I saw the helmet bouncing towards the front wheel, and then I saw our dog that I grew up with - Kiahulani, red apples on my parents apple trees, falling and skinning my knee when I was ten, Joshua hitting me with a tennis racket when I was 15, me throwing my drink in my ex-boyfriends face when I was 22, the first time Jordan told me he loved me, and then I realized that must have been a "life flashing before your eyes" moment just as my hero of the moment, the motorbike taxi driver deftly dodged the helmet, fingered the driver who had lost it, and swore in Thai. Then he stopped the bike.

"Ok you?" He asked?

"Ok, yes", I said, with my heart pounding somewhere in my throat, which was getting more and more sore by the minute. "Ok you?" I asked.

"Very goot!" he yelled, and then we were off again.